What: Intriguing Piagato passito
Why: For its broad bouquet
Perfect with: For meditation. Simple desserts, tasty cheeses
What: Intriguing Piagato passito
Why: For its broad bouquet
Perfect with: For meditation. Simple desserts, tasty cheeses
Italy
Durin. Via Roma, 202, 17037 Ortovero (SV), Italy
Attention... If you are looking for a little gem to round off a lunch or dinner in style and do not want to choose the classic Sicilian passito, this is the wine for you. We are in Liguria and this is a Pigato passito. A rare grape, masterfully processed by a small family business. But let us proceed with order. Not every harvest allows the winemaker to challenge the ripening times of the grapes. It is slow, precise, onerous work that does not allow for errors of judgement. The grapes must be healthy, intact, ripe, in short, perfect. When these conditions are met, however, there is the possibility of creating something truly unique. The grapes, in this case from Durin's estate vineyards in Ortovero and 'Ponterotto', part spurred-cordon trained and part bush-trained, in the older vineyards, are selected and delicately laid out on plateaus for natural drying. That is, with the sole help of sun and wind. After 5/6 weeks, the now 'sultana' grapes are manually de-stemmed, to be sent for processing. Fermentation is slow and takes place at low temperatures. Afterwards, ageing takes place in small oak barrels. In the glass, it has a beautiful amber yellow colour with gold highlights. The aromas are intense and persistent and recall dried and candied fruit, especially orange peel and ripe tropical fruits. Then honey and jams, with a nice mineral note. In the mouth, it is sweet but with just the right amount of freshness. Reminiscent of dried figs, dates, plums and vanilla. An excellent meditation wine, it goes well with simple desserts, with almonds and dried fruit. Also try it with tasty cheeses such as Gorgonzola and Roquefort.
Durin is a small family-run farm with a long history. It is located in Ortovero, in the province of Savona and was founded in 1978 by Antonio Basso, the third generation of winegrowers in his family. The company's first vineyards date back to the 1920s and today extend over 17 hectares, mostly terraced, in the Arroscia Valley. The main native varieties of western Liguria are grown here, thanks to a very special microclimate, influenced by the hills and the sea just 7 kilometres away. In the cellar, tradition and innovation happily coexist. So alongside the traditional Ligurian wines there are some very special and interesting ones.
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