The Marina Cvetić Chardonnay is a rather extraordinary expression that shows the spice, vanilla essence and pastry aromas of carefully oaked Chardonnay, along with the tonic brightness and freshness of the grape's primary aromas. The wine straddles these expansive worlds of Chardonnay on its steady feet, deftly touching both ends of the style spectrum. It does so successfully and respectfully, which is ultimately this wine's winning card. There are light touches of salty mineral and dried mint on the close, serving up a delightful pairing for pheasant braised in white wine, juniper berries, bay leaf and clove. The wine is fermented in barrique, and it ages in oak for 12 months. Some 19,000 bottles were released.

Impressive and pronounced notes here of lemon curd, spices, jasmine, guava peel, vanilla and cloves. Very flavorful and oily on the palate, where the fleshy tropical fruit creates a real sense of texture. Linear acid drives this long. Phenolic. Drink now.

A rounded nose of citrus cream, melon and pineapple juice carries the mildly concentrated nose. The palate carries brûléed citrus and melon flavors, with mild acidity backing it up. Toasted almond marks the close. ALEXANDER PEARTREE