High mountains, plains and gentle hills. Lombardy is an area that owes the diversification of its wine offering to its considerable size and geographical variety. Lovers of good wine can find excellent production in this region, both reds and whites, without forgetting the prominent role of Lombardy bubbles and sweet wines. Here are the best wines from Lombardy and the characteristics that make them so special!
The Lombardy of wines: history and main cultivated areas
As far as the cultivation of vines is concerned, Lombardy has a long history, dating back to prehistoric times. However, it was not until the Etruscans, the Rhaetians and the Romans that real knowledge of wine-making matured. After a period of stagnation following the fall of the Empire, wine growing in Lombardy flourished again during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, thanks to the proliferation of monasteries and noble courts.
Crucial in the 16th century was the spread of innovative French production techniques, which gave Lombard growers the opportunity to boost local production, with improvements becoming increasingly crucial after the phylloxera period.
The characteristics of Lombard wines differed over time according to the different production areas. Famous, for example, are the wines from Valtellina, a wine-growing area in the province of Sondrio. A tendentially mountainous area with steep terrain and harsh climates, the Valtellina represents a challenge that local farmers have successfully met. Soil rich in minerals and with excellent drainage capacity, and temperature fluctuations give rise to excellent ageing wines that are complex and elegant, tending to be tannic and intense.
The Oltrepò Pavese, in the province of Pavia (but also extending to Liguria, Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna) is instead an area characterised by a temperate climate (hot, sunny summers and moderately cold winters) and hilly soil with a clay and limestone composition. In these conditions, the grapes ripen easily and the vines obtain from the soil all the nutrients they need to grow luxuriantly and offer fine wines, especially classic method sparkling white and rosé wines, which are captivating for their finesse and aromaticity.
Finally, among the production areas for Lombard wines, Franciacorta and Lake Garda stand out. The former, in the province of Brescia, produces fresh and mineral wines thanks to its particular terroir: soils with a clay and limestone composition and temperatures mitigated by the proximity of the lakes.
The Mediterranean climate of the Garda area is equally favourable to the cultivation of vines, which can count on mild climates and heterogeneous, calcareous, clayey and gravelly soil. The resulting wines are fresh, easy-drinking and fragrant.
Pleasantness and fruity tones: the best Lombard red wines
Among the excellent black berry wines offered by this region, it is impossible not to mention Valtellina Superiore DOCG, one of Lombardy's best red wines. Made in the production area of the same name from Nebbiolo grapes (at least 90%, according to the regulations), this wine is the fruit of a long ageing process, two years for the basic version and at least three for the Riserva.
An excellent wine for ageing, the Valtellina presents itself in the glass with an intense ruby colour, but its appeal does not stop at the visual spectrum: persistent on the nose, with its floral and fruity notes (among which hints of rose and violet stand out), on the palate it is a cuddle for the palate, thanks to its softness.
Its exceptional accompaniments are meat dishes, whether roasted, boiled or braised. It is also excellent with cheeses and cured meats or with a typical dish of Valtellina gastronomy: the tasty Pizzoccheri.
Among Lombardy's red wines, wine lovers can also appreciate Bonarda dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC, produced from typical Lombardy grape varieties: Croatina (at least 85%), Barbera, Vespolina and Uva Rara.
Versatile in terms of food pairings, this still wine is an excellent companion for hors d'oeuvres with cold meats and cheeses, for soups, pastas and risottos, as well as for meat dishes. Credit is due to its intense aroma of red fruits and not too tannic hints, as well as a smooth texture that is perfect for those seeking a pleasant and easy-drinking wine.
The best of Lombardy's bubbles and white wines
The review of the best white wines of Lombardy opens with Lugana, a wine capable of adapting without too many problems to different occasions. Produced in the Lake Garda area, Lugana comes mainly from the vinification of Trebbiano and Soave grapes, and exists in different versions.
The basic one is characterised by floral and fruity tones, with a hint of citrus and wood. A bottle of Lugana DOC 2021, for example, is perfectly suited to fish dishes, bringing its characteristic freshness to the table.
The Superiore and Riserva versions, on the other hand - characterised by a longer ageing period - are more complex on the palate, even welcoming a slight smokiness. These are respectively suited to white meats and cheeses with a pronounced flavour, such as mature or blue cheeses.
Honourable mention also goes to the Spumante version - well represented by Lugana Metodo Classico DOC Brut - fresh and fragrant, perfect to accompany delicately flavoured desserts.
An excellent region when it comes to the production of sparkling and semi-sparkling wines, Lombardy wins over lovers of bubbles with Franciacorta DOCG. The designated grapes for this excellent local Metodo Classico are the Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco varieties.
The regulations require Franciacorta to be aged on the lees for at least 18 months (while for the rosé and Satèn versions it is 24 months, for the Millesimati it is 30 and 60 for the Riserva).
This wine presents itself in the glass with a straw-yellow colour with golden highlights, and tickles the nose with a delicate aroma. Fresh on the palate and pleasant to drink with aperitifs and fried food, Franciacorta is also particularly enjoyable with aperitifs and seafood dishes.
Also worthy of note are the Metodo Classico sparkling wines of the Oltrepò Pavese DOCG, which have earned the highest classification of wines thanks to the high quality of the Pinot Nero grapes grown in this specific area, the main protagonists of this wine excellence. Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio also contribute to the production of these bubbles, to a lesser extent than Pinot Nero, and the duration of ageing is 15 months, which becomes 24 for the Millesimati.
Classic Method sparkling wines from Oltrepò Pavese are ideal to accompany the entire meal, from hors d'oeuvres to first courses and especially risottos, cured meats, shellfish and sushi.
Fancy dessert: the best sweet wines
There is no wine-growing region that cannot produce excellent sweet wines to go with desserts, and Lombardy does not escape this rule. In addition to the aforementioned Lugana, which offers an excellent late harvest version with sweet notes, the region is also known for its Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC, an aromatic red wine that can be made from Barbera, Croatina, Pinot Nero, Uva Rara and Vespolina grapes, which is widespread in both still and sparkling versions. Its strong points?
An intense ruby red colour tending towards violet (hence its particular name), fruity hints with a slight spicy undertone, and a full-bodied texture. Finally, an interesting bitterish aftertaste contributes to balance the experience.
Finally, to worthily close this review of sweet wines from Lombardy, Moscato di Scanzo DOCG, produced in the Scanzorosciate area, cannot be left out.
Intense flavour and distinct aromaticity: these are the irresistible elements that characterise it and make it an excellent tasting product, on a par with Port.
The drying process of the grape bunches gives the wine an aroma of ripe fruit, with traces of cherries and honey and a spicy undertone. The aromatic richness is confirmed on tasting, to be served with chocolate, fruit tarts and - for those wishing to try a more unusual tasting - very mature cheeses.
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