Spect.
£53,91
a bottle
What: A Rosé almost entirely driven by Chardonnay
Why: The freshness of Blanc de Blancs with the elegance of red berry fruit
Perfect with: Seafood crudités, shellfish and cured meats
Wine Spectator
£53,91
a bottle
What: A Rosé almost entirely driven by Chardonnay
Why: The freshness of Blanc de Blancs with the elegance of red berry fruit
Perfect with: Seafood crudités, shellfish and cured meats
France
Pierre Gimonnet & Fils - 1, rue de la République – 51530 CUIS - France
A Rosé that does not try to imitate a red wine, but proudly embraces its white soul. Pierre Gimonnet has created a true rarity in Champagne: a Rosé de Blancs, where the finesse of Chardonnay dominates almost entirely, while Pinot Noir plays only a supporting role, bringing colour and a subtle touch of woodland fruit character. We are in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, in Cuis, where chalk is the true protagonist and gives the wines their unmistakable vertical tension. Chardonnay represents an impressive 93.5% of the blend, sourced from an exceptional mosaic of crus including Cramant, Chouilly and Oger. The remaining 6.5% comes from red vinified Pinot Noir, added to provide its seductive pink hue. It is a delicate balancing act, almost a sleight of hand, preserving the freshness of a Blanc de Blancs while adding a new layer of aromatic complexity. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand and pressed with the utmost care. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine rests in neutral tanks for around 6 to 8 months before undergoing cold stabilisation. A light clay filtration ensures crystal-clear precision. Bottle ageing on fine lees lasts between 18 and 24 months, carefully calibrated so the fruit remains vibrant and expressive rather than overtaken by evolved notes. Dosage is kept low at just 5 g/l, allowing the terroir of Cuis to speak freely. In the glass it reveals a charming pale pink colour with an endlessly fine mousse. The bouquet is delicate and graceful, weaving together red berry fruit, floral notes and bright citrus nuances. On the palate, freshness takes centre stage: mandarin and grapefruit drive the wine forward with energy and precision. The finish is elegant, linear and deeply mineral. This is not a heavy Champagne, but a sparkling wine bursting with joie de vivre. Perfect with tuna tartare finished with lime zest, where the acidity lifts the richness of the fish beautifully. Excellent too with raw Mazara red prawns or, for a land-based pairing, with Parma ham.
Today we are in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, that blessed strip of chalk-rich land where Chardonnay is not simply a grape variety but almost a religion. This is where Pierre Gimonnet & Fils shines brightest. Their story is not one of a vast commercial maison, but of a family of growers whose roots in the region stretch back to 1750. The real turning point came in 1935, when Michel Gimonnet decided to stop selling grapes to the major Champagne houses and begin vinifying his own wines. It was a bold decision that gave birth to a now legendary style: grower Blanc de Blancs of remarkable character. Today the estate is run by brothers Didier and Olivier Gimonnet, who oversee around 28 hectares of vineyards with near-obsessive precision. They are among the very few producers in Champagne whose holdings are located entirely within the Côte des Blancs, across prestigious villages such as Cuis, Cramant and Chouilly. The philosophy here is all about freshness, finesse and verticality. To achieve this, the winery embraces what could best be described as “precision craftsmanship”. One of their most distinctive practices is the ageing of reserve wines exclusively in bottle, preserving their aromatic vibrancy intact. This allows them to create blends that maintain outstanding stylistic consistency year after year. Many of the family’s vineyard parcels are over 40 years old, with some approaching a century in age. These “old ladies” produce fewer grapes, but the fruit they deliver carries extraordinary aromatic concentration and natural structure without the need for heavy-handed winemaking.
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